(slow smoking)

Slow smoking is designed for cheap, tough cuts where the fat gradually melts over a long period of time and bastes the meat. After many hours of cooking at around 100 to 120 degrees C, even the toughest piece of meat will be turned into something miraculous. Fragrant with smoke and succulent from the rendered fat, the meat is so tender it can be pulled apart with a fork.

The only off the shelf dedicated slow smoker I have come across in Australia on a regular basis is the Weber Smokey Mountain (WSM for short). This is a bullet-shaped device that uses charcoal as its fuel source and features a pan full of water which acts as a heat sink to help keep the temperature within the critical range.

The WSM is a great little smoker and the only reason I don't own one is because I thought they were too expensive in Australia. So I bought a 'cheap' smoker and have spent a lot of time and money modifying it into an approximation of the Weber. Of course, it probably would have been less expensive to buy the Weber.

The 'Frankensmoker' is named after the good doctor because it comprises components taken from 'dead' Brinkmann, Meco and Weber smokers and barbecues.

It has been modified to use sand as the heat sink instead of water as I have always believed that this leads to over-moist results. Steaming has its place and that's with vegetables - not meat.

While the Frankensmoker is pretty basic it's a big advance on my first 'smoker' which was based on a modified paper recycling bin. Although temperature control was very hit and miss, it did turn out some truly superlative results and proved that all you really need to slow smoke successfully are a few coals and something to hold the meat above them. But the search for a new smoker started when I found out that galvanised metal has the potential to emit toxic fumes if it's heated sufficiently.

Both of my smokers have used lump charcoal as fuel and the smoke has been provided by chunks of smoking wood such as pecan. When using any of these smokers (including the WSM) a second fire or charcoal chimney is necessary so there is a source of new coals available to maintain the steady slow cooking temperature.

Because you are looking at cooking times of 4 to 6 hours (ribs) to 12 hours or more (beef brisket), you probably need to spend the day gardening so you can keep an eye on the temperature gauge. Or, if you are a cricket tragic, position the smoker so you can see it from your armchair in front of the telly.

The most important feature to have in a slow smoker is an accurate temperature gauge. One that gives hints like 'low/ideal/high' is worse than useless. The best bet is to buy one that has precise temperature markings and then test it in a pan of boiling water (it should read 100degrees C - unless you live on top of Mt Kosciusko in which case it will be a couple of degrees less).

I have also used my kettle barbecue successfully for slow smoking by using half as much charcoal as for roasting and then restricting the air intake (but leave the exhaust on top open). The cheaper kettle barbecues with the two variable air inlets in the base offer better air control than the more expensive ones designed for easier cleaning.

With the cheaper version, you pile the charcoal on one side of the kettle (not both as usual in indirect cooking) and place the food on the other. Open the vent under the charcoal but keep the one under the food shut. Position the exhaust vent over the food and leave it open at all times. By partially closing the vent under the coals, you can regulate the temperature to a certain extent. It's not quite as simple with the models that have the three slots in the base. However, trial and error will show you how much of an air gap to leave so the temperature drops but the fire does not go out.

Trolley barbecues fitted with hoods can also be used to give an approximation of American barbecue if a regular supply of smoke is provided by soaked wood chips. Trial and error will dictate the exact amount of heat required to keep it at a steady low temperature. Mine only requires one burner turned on halfway to keep the cooking temperature at the 100 degrees C mark. Obviously, the burner(s) used should be as far away as possible from the meat.

FOR: Inexpensive if constructed from recycled items. Purists argue it's impossible to achieve the same succulent smoky results using any other method.

AGAINST: Takes a lot of commitment and time.

BEST AT: Melt in the mouth meat.

PRICE RANGE: From zero for one made from found items to $500 plus for the Weber Smokey Mountain. Special 'pits' could also be imported from the USA - but don't count on much change out of $5,000 plus for even the more simple versions.

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